Silvia Furmanovich’s latest jewelry collection began, as often happens for the designer, with a journey. On a monthlong trek across Uzbekistan, the São Paulo native was entranced by craftsmen weaving rugs as light as feathers in the ancient city of Bukhara. “Four men tossed a silk carpet into the air, and as it floated to the ground I envisioned a pair of earrings,” Furmanovich says. While it wasn’t easy to convince the weavers to miniaturize their rugs, her persistence paid off, and richly patterned earrings—and the cuff pictured here—were born. They are now part of her Silk Road collection.

“My jewelry is a cross-pollination of traditions,” Furmanovich says. “I love discovering crafts in faraway places that I can show in a contemporary way.” In so doing she’s employing artisans whose livelihoods depend on selling their handiwork. She has collaborated with people in the Amazon for the intricate wood marquetry that is her signature. She has transformed Japan’s ancient basketwork into woven bamboo pieces and India’s centuries-old miniature paintings into modern creations.

Her encounters on the Silk Road gave Furmanovich new techniques. She learned about hand-embroidered suzani fabrics and ikat tie-dyed with such pigments as pomegranate juice, and she visited textile and ­jewelry dealers in Samarkand, Khiva, and Tashkent. These discoveries then found new life: ikat recreated in marquetry, suzani fashioned into miniatures on wood painted by Indian artisans, all coming together in her bohemian blend of textures, colors, and gemstones. Even those weavers in Bukhara were impressed; they couldn’t help smiling when they saw their rugs spun into precious jewels.

This story appears in the October 2022 issue of Town & Country. SUBSCRIBE NOW

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